Cozumel is back in cruise-ship mode

[Jason]

Cozumel is back in cruise-ship mode

By Chris Erskine, Los Angeles Times

Beautiful Cozumel is welcoming back the cruise ships, which were left without docking space after Hurricane Wilma.

Two of the three cruise piers are open again, and 16 cruise ships now dock each week, a number that's expected to reach 40 during the winter season.

Divers wait in the shade at the Aqua Safari pier for their dive boat to pull in, and the sweet perfume of Cuban cigars once again laces the air.

Cozumel was probably hit the hardest of any place in Yucatan, Mexico, its mangrove trees stripped of leaves, the cruise piers pummeled.

Local divers say the shallow reefs close to shore suffered the most. The renowned Palancar reef was deep enough, at 70 feet, to avoid major damage. The Santa Rosa Wall, beloved for its caves and overhangs, came through the storm OK, and perhaps even benefited.

"Some of the sand moved back and opened up some of the tunnels," says Jose Fernandez, an instructor with Scuba Club Cozumel.

Reefs that didn't fare so well: Cardona, Yucab and El Isole, according to divers and diving instructors surveyed.

[Gregswife]

Jason, thank you for posting. We will be sailing to Cozumel next Nov. and I thought we would still have to tender in. So glad to know that the piers are back in use...

[DaCruzNut]

One of my favorite stops, on Cozumel, is Chankanaab Park, just a short, ten-dollar (U.S.) taxi cab ride from the dock.

The park was completely rebuilt in 1996, and has something for everyone. Admission is $10.00 (U.S.), for adults, and children are admitted free.

The beach is less than spectacular, but more than adequate. There are palapas, on the beach, if you want shade. It’s appeal lies in the fact that the reef is just a few hundred feet offshore, and you can rent snorkeling equipment ($6.00 - U.S.) and scuba gear ($20.00 - U.S.) right on the beach. The snorkeling and diving is truly spectacular, with visibility 250 feet, on a “bad day,†and “Unlimited†on a “Good†one!

Within Chankanaab Park is an Archeological Park, which used to be on another part of the island, and was moved to its present site during the 1996 renovation. A winding, jungle-like, trail winds through the Archeological Park, past replicas of Maya, Inca, Olmec, etc; structures and carvings, and leads to a recreated Mayan village.

The park, also, contains a beautiful Botanical Garden, with hundreds of species of plants, and a large population of Iguanas.

But, the centerpiece of the park is Chankanaab Lagoon, a gigantic sinkhole which connect to the sea through a number of underground tunnels. A large assortment of tropical reef fish also make their way into the lagoon, through the tunnels, and can be viewed from the path, and lookout points, which circle the lagoon.

If you’re looking for an inexpensive, but really nice souvenir, or gift, check out Roberto’s Black Coral jewelry, in Sam Miguel, on 5th Street South. Go to the top of the main square, the Plaza del Sol, and turn right. Roberto’s is about three blocks south of the square, on the northeast corner.

His work is, truly, extraordinary and his prices are ridiculously low. By the way, it IS legal to bring black coral into the U.S., if it’s considered “artwork,†and Roberto’s work fits the description.

The Mayan ruin at San Gervasio has not undergone the major restoration that the Mexican government had completed at many of the other sites, such as Chichen Itza, Tulum, Uxmal, etc; and is of interest only to those who are truly interested in Mayan history. It was an important site, historically, since it held the temple of the fertility goddess, Ixchel, but a relatively small one. Unless you’re a real pre-Columbian history buff, I don’t recommend this stop.

[JohnG]

Jeff,

Chankanaab was pretty well devastated by Hurricane Wilma, and didn't reopen until late this past summer, and then with not all venues opened. The Dolphin Encounter and Swim is back operating.

From an Aug 2006 report on Trip Advisor:

Upon arrival, you can already tell that this park really was devastated from last year's hurricane. We paid our admission only to find out that the only thing open was the dolphin swim (for an additional fee, of course) and a beach that was only recommended for adults due to the deepness of the beach. The children's beach was not swimmable, their was no snorkeling, the garden's were closed, etc. etc. The rest of the park was still recovering from the damage.

An October and a November report indicated the palapa's were back and the snorkeling was better.

[btate]

JohnG is correct. I was there in October and it was still in the rebuild stage and slow at that. I did have some friends who did the Dolphin swim and said it was one of the coolest things they have ever done. I think swimming with dolphins is just plain cool anyway.

Until the island is completely rebuilt, I would recommend to anyone to rent a car and just drive South until you find a nice beach, pull over and enjoy the beach. A car is only about $50 and the island has a very low crime rate and is almost impossible to get lost on as there is only one road. We rented an air conditioned car and locked our stuff up in it. We spent a lot of time on the beach and saw the sites at our own leasure. We used about a half a tank of gas and it cost $10 to fill the tank when we were done. Renting a car was a great way to spend the day in Cozumel.

[hazelson]

Glad to hear Cozumel is "up and running" dock wise, but we didn't find it too inconvenient to take the tenders. We just wandered around and shopped last time - they really welcomed us.

[TheSkipper]

Will be heading into Cozumel in March, so glad to see your report Jason.